Picture this: it's 10 pm—you've just stepped out of a cold shower, your hair is up in a micro-fibre towel, your bathroom is filled with a jasmine aroma, and your nighttime skincare routine is the same as the one you did in the morning. Upon first reading, this scenario may sound like a normal night. But we're here to question if this is enough.
Your skin changes as time passes by—there will be days when it will need extra pampering and others when less will be more. Similarly, the nighttime skincare routine and morning skincare routines will differ. When the sun goes down, our skin behaves differently than it does in the daytime; it does not share the same characteristics and therefore the kind of care it requires, changes. To understand this better, we spoke to the experts about how one can get the best out of their skincare routine.
What is the right order of nighttime skincare?
"The first thing is to be disciplined; we cannot skip daily cleansing in the morning or at night," says Carmen Navarro, director of the eponymous beauty centres. He continues, "At night I advise double cleansing to ensure the removal of the remains of makeup and toxins accumulated during the day. A toner that balances the pH and skin type appropriate cosmetics are a must." Taking into account specific needs is essential if we want to obtain the best results. Navarro is clear, "The products to use after 35 are a serum that helps repair damage caused by oxidation and either an antioxidant or regenerating night cream. The area of the eye contour should be treated from the age of 30 and if you have skin with scars or marks, it is advisable to use retinol two days a week," says the expert.
What is the difference between skin in the day and night?
The best time to do any intensive skincare is at night. Not only because it is the perfect way to relax, but it is also the time when our skin can reap the most benefits from the products. "Let's not forget that at night the skin's repair mechanisms remain active; in fact, it is then that all its cellular functions are performed most effectively. But we must not forget that it also dehydrates and changes temperature, so a little extra help goes a long way," recommends Navarro.
Dr Cristina Corredera, a specialist in dermatology, aesthetic medicine and hair care at the IMR centre (Instituto Médico Ricart), explains it this way–"During the day, our skin is in protection and defence mode from solar radiation, temperature changes and environmental toxins, which generate free radicals responsible for skin deterioration. During the night, the skin repairs and regenerates damaged cells. Cortisol also decreases, thus protecting against excessive collagen degradation, and our breathing slows down, allowing better oxygenation of the blood which. All these processes help the skin to regenerate from the deeper layers, replacing the surface cells that have been damaged during the day. In addition, the skin is more permeable at night, which means it is more receptive to the absorption of active ingredients and nutrients. Therefore, nourishing creams should be used at night and moisturisers during the day," suggests Corredera.
In addition to cosmetics, what else can we do for our skin at night?
"After the obligatory cleansing routine, I recommend practising facial yoga with the help of a hand-held massager like a jade or rose quartz roller. A tool with a stone is recommended to release the stress accumulated during the day as it has minerals that help eliminate swelling, release toxins and improve circulation," says Navarro. Another infallible, though less practised, nighttime tip? "Digital disconnection. Disconnect, digitally speaking, at least 1 hour before going to bed. You'll avoid influencing the quality of your sleep not only because of how it affects melatonin but also because, if you don't rest well and sleep the necessary hours, your skin won't be able to properly carry out its cellular regeneration."
Which active ingredients should we use at night?
"The star active ingredients to use at night are stimulators, renewers and exfoliators–retinol, glycolic and mandelic acids, lactic and salicylic acids, which chemically exfoliate the skin by removing the dead cells from the surface. The skin's surface dead cells are removed, stimulating the synthesis of dermal collagen and elastin and epidermal cell turnover," says Corredera. "During the day, in addition to sunscreen, antioxidants, anti-spot and moisturisers should be used–hyaluronic acid, vitamin C, vitamin E, ferulic acid, resveratrol, niacinamide, tranexamic acid are some options. Very greasy formulas with occlusive galenic agents should be avoided as they can hinder the increased permeability of the skin during the night," she warns.
What is the most important step in a nighttime skincare routine?
"Without a doubt, facial cleansing," agree both experts. "If we don't cleanse and remove makeup properly, the toxins and oil we secrete will remain on the surface and not allow the skin's natural regeneration process to happen. Unclean skin is also the perfect opportunity for acne to proliferate the skin, as it will thicken and the pH will be altered. Removing eye makeup is a must–if we do not do this, the eyelashes will weaken and dry out until they fall. As for the lips, dehydration is guaranteed if we don't remove the remains of lipsticks," reminds Navarro.
Can we use the same products from our daytime routine at night?
Except for facial cleansing products, it's best to use different formulas. "The idea is to use different products for day and night since the physiology and function of our skin changes completely," says Cristina. However, everything will depend on the type of skin we are treating, always customising cosmetics according to our needs.
How much time should pass between our skincare routine and our bedtime?
"It is better if we don't go to bed immediately so that the skin absorbs the products and they don't stay on the pillow, a few minutes is enough'' say Dr Corredera. She says the trick is consistency–she advises leaving creams and other cosmetics for the nightly routine on the bedside table to make it easier to complete.
How do we introduce retinol into our nighttime routine?
"Retinol is present in many cosmetics for its powerful anti-ageing effects–it has firming properties, prevents wrinkles, is a great depigmenting ally and a good activator of collagen production in a natural way. It is also an antioxidant and is very effective against acne," says Navarro. However, it should be avoided during the day, as it photosensitizes the skin and makes it reactive to solar radiation. "To introduce retinol into our routine without altering the skin, we should first use a product containing retinol in low concentrations, and use it only twice a week, increasing the number of days progressively. If the skin tolerance has been good, we can use a more powerful formula and increase the frequency gradually," says Dr Corredera.
What is the most common mistake one can make in a nighttime routine?
"Going to bed without cleansing the face and maintaining the same routine throughout the year. In summer, replace your retinol with a serum with DMAE and a regenerating cream, and don't forget the neck and décolleté. Use specific cosmetics that activate collagen and elastin synthesis," says Navarro. However, she warns that these routines will be of little use if we don't rest well. ''Rest is key to preserving our health, not only on a mental and corporal level but also for our skin. Bags and dark circles are the first signs of a lack of sleep.
This article first appeared on vogue.es
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